Chapter 9
232 miles across Pennsylvania to Delaware Water Gap
1265 miles down and 903 miles to go
Pinefield
Hut:
"For those of
you who think that hiking the Appalachian Trail is not a competition, I'd
like to inform you that you're wrong. It isn't a RACE, and its not a contest
for the most yellow-blazes, worst flatulence, loudest snore, most inarticulate
entries, or most alternative trail names - but it is a competition. And
even if you abhor competition, you've entered as of the moment you strode
past your first white blaze. And I'm WINNING. I'd tell you what the competition
is, but I don't want to give up my advantage."
Buzzsaw
GA > ME
Charles
Ferry Shelter:
"That's right
- you heard'em. WET! It's so wet my bones are soggy. It's so wet that all
I have to do when I'm thirsty is shake a tree. The Susquehanna has risen
2/3 of the way up the mountain, so I hardly even had to climb to get here.
Well, I'm gonna swim on over to the next shelter since it's up higher and
the river is gaining ground."
Kaptain
Krummholz
GA > ME
"P. S. Howdy (Recently outlawed word) to Fur Trapper,
Wayah, Squirrelfight, and Jones (who I thought I'd be seeing soon but seem
to have missed). Hope to see y'all (Recently outlawed word) soon"
Wayah was in a peculiar predicament. He had stayed a little
while in Harpers Ferry, West Virginia after Squirrelfight went home so that
it would be easier for Squirrel to catch up when he got back on. He had
found Jones' walking stick in Harpers Ferry and thought it strange that
he would leave it. Jones had carried the thick staff since before they met
and had carved the Appalachian Trail symbol into the top of it. He had even
kept it after the end cracked, holding it fast with duct tape. Now here
it stood with the discarded walking sticks in the Appalachian Trail Conference
Headquarters, the duct tape frayed and gashed and the haft dark and smooth
from oil and sweat. It was possible that Jones had actually grown tired
of the weakening stick and discarded it, but it seemed unlikely. When a
package arrived for Jones the same day Wayah's mail arrived, he next-day
mailed it at great expense to Jones' next mail stop, hoping it would beat
him there. He hadn't seen Jones since the Viking Destroyer left Rusty's
early, and he was hoping Jones would hike slowly to let him catch up, as
he was intending to do for Squirrel. Not until he was crossing over from
Maryland into Pennsylvania, passing the fabled Mason Dixon Line, did he
catch Dr. DooRiddle, who told him that Jones had gotten off the trail for
a week due to a death in the family. Suddenly Wayah was in front, and quite
a ways in front. He had four or five days lead on both Jones and Squirrelfight,
perhaps 60 miles, and they would be hard pressed to catch up. Wayah did
fine on his own, enjoying the woods, but his friends were his family and
his community, and he was eager for their return. If he even hiked at a
normal pace it might be months before he saw them again, and they may even
give up on catching him.
So now Wayah rolled slowly along. He couldn't just stop and wait for the
Vikings because he would run out of food. His mail drops were already
sent and waiting in post offices ahead. All he could do was stretch his
food and move slowly. He took his time, rarely hiking more than ten miles
a day. Pennsylvania was, in the beginning, some of the easiest, most level
trail so far, and hiking for only three or four hours a day, Wayah had
a lot of spare time. The trail ran up onto low ridges and stayed on them
for long stretches before dropping down to the dry valleys. Often the
trail would run through and between fields of grain or corn. The hiking
was cake, but the heat was coming on. He would check every side trail,
stop at every view, climb any rocks, and nap in the sun. When it looked
like rain he would sit under an out-cropping and read Siddhartha
again. The days were lazy and lonely. There were other hikers, more in
fact than usual, but most had started in Harpers Ferry, and the few thru-hikers
to be found were strangers from behind going faster and disappearing quickly.
They knew his name, but were surprised to hear that he was the Viking
Lord, expecting to see him surrounded by dozens of Viking axemen. He was
amused to find that many people were unclear on the size of the horde,
but for now he was the Wolf, traveling alone until his fellows caught
up.
Wayah spent most of his time alone. He hiked with Kit Kat through open,
flat fields during her last days on the trail before getting off in Duncannon.
He spent a day with a guitar player who had isolated himself in the woods
to quit smoking. Wayah would camp near the new hikers, talking and helping
and laughing with them, but they didn't sit down to pot-luck, and it was
at dinner that he felt alone.
The Wolf strode serenely out of the wet trees into a moist clearing. The grass was still glistening from some light rain earlier in the day, and the toes of his boots were black from the water whipping off the grass. The leather all over the boots had once been black but now was a weathered, cracked gray. Squirrel's soles had come off just before he went home, and Wayah wondered how much longer his own boots would hold out. With over a thousand miles underfoot they were going strong, but the leather around the toe and sides had many little and a few large slashes from every rock he had kicked or tripped over, and the edges of the sole were threatening to separate.
There were two small lean-to's that looked more like scale models than shelters. He walked to the first one and looked around the inside. It was a typical, if small, shelter. There were empty food bag hangars dangling from the overhanging roof, a pair of old socks someone had left in the comer, and nailed to the left wall was a metal box with a flap on it. He flipped open the lid and pulled out the tattered spiral notebook with "Birch Run Shelter Register" scrawled on the front with a magic marker. Leaning his pack against the lip of the sleeping platform, he sat down and read. The register belonged to someone he didn't know. Inside the front cover a message asked that the notebook be returned to the owner when it was full and offered a reward to the person who did (a common practice). It would be quite a souvenir to have one of these registers with the thoughts and comments of so many hikers known or otherwise. Some hikers carried a blank notebook with them in case they came to a shelter with no register or a full one so that they could leave their own.
Wayah flipped through the book, stopping to read the entries of hikers
he knew or who had written humorous entries in the past, and glanced over
the rest since he had the time. This register was dominated by a discussion
of what one did or didn't need on the trail. Such discussions were common,
often arguments between the same groups of people who would likely never
meet each other. Arguments over purist ideology, or what it meant to be
a thru-hiker seemed to rage endlessly. They gave the Vikings a chuckle.
"Hike your own hike." How many times had they heard it? It didn't
matter to those arguing, though, so Wayah found it best to make fun of
them. He remembered a time in Virginia when he and Squirrelfight were
on a ridge and needed water. There was a path to a spring, but it went
straight down the sheer wall of the ridge. They decided to leave their
packs at the top, bringing only their water bottles. Squirrel had joked
that if their packs were stolen they could continue hiking down the trail
with their water bottles saying to everyone they met that anyone who needed
more than a water bottle, a pair of boots, and a pair of shorts had no
business being on the trail. Wayah took the chewed cap off the ball point
pen that was hanging from the register and wrote his entry, wondering
when Squirrel would read it.
"Came in last night after a whopping
7 1/2 mile day. Of course, with my new Viking powers I made it in eleven
minutes. I read Siddhartha yesterday. Ifs filled with great wisdom and truth,
none of which I will impart here.
I sent all my gear home from South Mountain. I
now have a pair of shorts (for diplomatic reasons), one nalgene, and an
axe. Anyone who carries more than that is a wimp. Actually, I may pick up
another axe, perhaps even a flaming brand, but that's all! Anyone who can't
live with this equipment and maybe an oven mitt should just go home."
Wayah
the Wolf
Viking Lord
GA > ME
Squirrelfight read Wayah's register entry with a grin and then looked
at the date. He was still eight days behind Wayah. The rain was pattering
on the tin roof of the shelter and running in streams to the muddy plot
just in front of the shelter, throwing little sprays of muck on anything
near the ground. Squirrel loved reading the registers. While some people
used them simply to record their passing and others felt the need to expound
their political views, there was always an abundance of silliness. Right
now he was constantly checking the dates of Wayah and Jones to see if
he was gaining on them at all, and would do a small dance to celebrate
whenever Wayah spoke of a zero mile day he was taking. But it was entries
like this one at Birch Run Shelter that pleased him most. He got the joke
and thought it was funny, but funnier still to Squirrel was the thought
of those who would miss the joke.
When Squirrelfight had left the trail in Harpers Ferry he had expected to be gone for a week. Two weeks later he was back in West Virginia hiking alone for the first time since North Carolina. It was a bit of culture shock leaving the trail to see friends and family for so long knowing that his other family was leaving him behind, continuing without him. During his break he had not hiked one mile. He had celebrated his sister's wedding, gotten new soles on his boots, eaten lots of mom's home cooking, stayed up after dark watching movies, and had gone to see the Grateful Dead. He had a great time but was anxious to get back to his other world. At home he was not Squirrelfight or a Viking of any sort. He was also having trouble sleeping inside a building in a bed with lots of room to roll around.
Traveling back to the trail he stopped in D.C. for a couple of days to visit friends. It was only an hour or two drive back to Harper's Ferry from there but with five of them in the car it had become a sort of short road trip. They walked with him along the trail for about a mile where they stopped for a swim in the Potomac until it was time to head back. They said farewell and were gone. Squirrelfight had some walking to do.
Trying to catch someone on the trail is no easy task. If someone is chasing
a person who is 50 miles ahead of them then they must hike seven miles
more than that person is hiking every day for an entire week. Wayah and
Jones were at least 100 miles ahead of Squirrelfight when he got back
and he was in no shape to be doing extra miles during that first week.
He had acquired a cold just before he returned and couldn't seem to shake
it. His legs were still in working order but his feet were having toe
and blister problems that were slowing him down. In addition, the late
June heat was far from ideal for big mile days. Arriving at camp 37 miles
from Boiling Springs on Thursday night, he realized how ridiculous it
would be to run there before noon on Saturday in order to reach the post
office before it closed for the weekend. Those miles would be much more
enjoyable over three days than they would be over one and a half. Boiling
Springs was the end of a 96 mile week. The 100 mile week was a respectable
pace, but not one that would catch the Vikings any time soon.
Squirrel knew that about now Wayah would be expecting him to catch up. It had been three weeks, which to Wayah's knowledge meant that Squirrel had been back on for two weeks after missing only one. Wayah didn't know that Squirrelfight was still 100 miles behind him in Boiling Springs. Squirrel gave himself a headache just thinking about it. He knew how far behind he was and he knew that Wayah didn't.
It was so refreshing for Squirrel to be back in the woods. Back in the woods where he could run and jump and climb and play. Back in the woods listening to bugs and birds squeaking and singing and lighting up the time of day. Back in the woods where he could breath fresher air and drink cleaner water and hike every day. He was meeting new people all the time, but he missed his friends. When he introduced himself as Squirrelfight, hikers would inquire about the Vikings. To his astonishment many people wanted to hear the story about the Privy Dunker. He quickly realized that they had taken the register entry seriously, so rather than deny it, he perpetuated the myth by saying he didn't want to talk about it and quickly changed the subject. People would confide that they had laughed and laughed while reading about his misfortune, but they did not push him to discuss it. He wished he could go back and read the entries that followed his and Wayah's creation in that register, but the response he received was more than satisfying.
* * *
cartons full of tap water that locals had provided since there was no
water nearby except a river. A river flowing through a town is about the
worst place to drink from, second only to standing pond water. The heat
was picking up of late. He had sent his heavy rain gear home weeks earlier,
and his mother had sent him his ultralight rain jacket which would collapse
to the size of a fist. He also sent back his heavy fleece in exchange
for a lighter fleece jacket. He had only been cold once in the past weeks.
It had rained so hard for so long that day. He had thought it a godsend
at first, taking off his shirt and letting the rain cool off his skin
and run down his legs, but it kept raining and raining and he had turned
very cold. He stood under a tree for a while hoping for the rain to stop,
but it wouldn't, and his body cooled from standing still. Hypothermia
was a very real danger, even in the summer, and he started hiking again,
looking for shelter. Finally near a road he found an abandoned building
full of broken glass and trash and spray painted graffiti, but out of
the rain. He fired up his stove, cooked a hot lunch, and let himself warm
and dry by the stove.
Now in the mountain town of Port Clinton, he couldn't figure out where the Vikings were. They should have caught up days ago. Wayah had been hiking very slowly trying to let them catch up for a long time now. He expected to see them coming up from behind every time he stopped. Now he was beginning to wonder if they had gotten off the trail for good. lt just didn't make sense. Jones had been in a foul mood the last time Wayah saw him, but quit the trail? And Squirrel. There was no reason in the world for him not to come back as soon as his sister said, "I do." So he sat in the pavilion all day and the next, reading and writing and going to the diner down the street for breakfast.
Near the end of the second day he was walking down the long street that wound its way to the post office, and he could see two hikers walking towards him under the overcast sky. They were both shorter than him, one skinny and one stocky, but what he saw was the stockier one's bouncing swagger that screamed out "Jones!" Closer, he recognized that the other hiker was Jokers, but Squirrel was nowhere to be found. The two Vikings hadn't seen any sign of Squirrel since they hiked out of Harper's Ferry. Jones had been off for a week and Jokers had arrived in Harpers Ferry just in time to join him. If Squirrel was only a couple of days behind them, then he wasn't trying very hard to catch up. They figured he must have been delayed, and would catch them anytime. Jones and Jokers had been keeping a medium pace to catch up to Wayah but not get too far ahead of Squirrel.
They all took another day in the pavilion at Port Clinton, eating well
and trying to yogi a ride into a nearby town that had a movie theater.
They weren't able to get all the way there, but they managed to get rides
to various local landmarks and by a grocery store where they picked up
some Ben & Jerry's. Jones had brought new friends with him from the
trail behind. Among them was Sir Renity, whom Wayah hadn't seen since
the first weeks on the trail. The bandy legged veteran stared at the Wolf,
wondering who this stranger was who shouted his name before recognizing
Wayah with hair on his head and face, his body lean and starved. Sir Renity
had never known that the Viking Lord, who was always a week ahead of him,
was the quiet lad with the shaved head he'd met that first day. Stepping
Wolf and Blista were hiking with Sir Renity. These two friends from Massachusetts
hiked near each other though often not together. They wore their athletic
builds like warriors but had that trail worn wisdom in their eyes that
spoke of laughter and adventure. They would make excellent Vikings. They
brought news from far behind of friends who had left the trail through
injury or weariness and told of many adventures of their own.
Squirrel did not come the next day, and the Vikings left the Port Clinton
camp, setting their sights on Delaware Water Gap which marked the end
of Pennsylvania. They would make it there by the Fourth of July, and hopefully
Squirrel would be with them.
Bake Oven Knob Shelter:
"Pulled another
long day with Leap Frog yesterday from Windsor Furnace. I can smell the
Vikings. I can taste the goat's blood in my mouth. It's running down my
chin and through my beard. Gotta go."
Squirrelfight
GA > ME
Indeed Squirrelfight could smell the Vikings. Since Boiling Springs he had been walking over 20 miles each day while his friends up ahead wondered in the registers if he was even back there. At Windsor Furnace Shelter they wrote that they were aiming for Delaware Water Gap for the Fourth of July and take the day off, but after that they wanted to pick up the pace. The message had been written two days earlier which gave the Vikings five 15 mile days to the Water Gap. Squirrel, however, would have to maintain three more 24 mile days. His feet were sore from the Pennsylvania rocks that cobbled the jagged trail endlessly after Port Clinton, but he was walking with a new partner this week, and Leap Frog said, "No problem."
There were plenty of big-mile hikers on the A.T.. The Vikings would be set
up at camp and someone would roll in late, introduce himself, and be gone
at dawn the next morning never to be seen again. Their names would get further
and further ahead each day in the register. Squirrelfight had done 21 miles
by 5:30 and was feeling proud of himself the night that Leap Frog had come
in to camp after hiking a 33 mile day. He had long, gangly legs and he usually
hiked his long days alone. His pack hung low on his back and he held a long
stick to assist his momentum while his other hand gripped his shoulder strap.
He had suffered a stress fracture in one foot early in his hike, which had
not slowed him down at all. He was a thru-hiker, strong and determined,
and he was 15 years old.
Squirrel and Leap Frog had moved on for a couple more days pushing some big miles. They saw each other occasionally and in Port Clinton they had joined a few other hikers at the Port Clinton Hotel for a hamburger hiker lunch. Squirrel cooked dinner for the two of them that night at Windsor Furnace since he was carrying six days of food out of town and planned on doing the section in only three. Never before had he walked 16 miles with the burden of a new a mail drop on his back, but despite the rocky terrain he was confident he could endure for three more days. Then he would tie the Vikings to a tree and force them to take a few days off. He should have realized that no tying would be necessary.
Water was no less important but often much more scarce on the trail in Pennsylvania. The hiking was all up on the ridges with just a few drops 1,000 feet down into the gaps. Many of the very few springs were off the trail straight down the side of the ridge, and during the heat of the summer, many ran dry. Luck was with Leap Frog and Squirrelfight as they tore through this section, Because they were busting out big miles, they were sure to hit the best water source in the area each day. When they met southbound hikers on the trail they shared information about water for days ahead. They still had to hike down off the ridge occasionally but they knew which springs would be running ahead of time. When they arrived they would "camel up," meaning they would filter and chug a fresh quart and fill up all of their bottles.
The weather was also on their side during those days. After breaking for candy bars and sodas at Eckville Shelter one day they climbed back out of the gap as it began to pour down rain. The temperature became reasonable for hiking and the rain gave them something to concentrate on other than climbing a mountain. Climbing out of Lehigh Gap the next day a cool breeze helped them on the steep ascent up the barren ridge.
* * *
Wayah's mail drop was not in Delaware Water Gap, but in a town one day south
of the Gap. He broke off from the Vikings, promising to meet them in the
Gap before the fourth. He did his laundry and treated himself to the rare
expense of a motel that sat astride the trail on a highway that stretched
into town and beyond, away from the mountains. Wayah was glad to be alone,
strangely enough. The Viking Camp had been riddled with small stresses in
the past days. Jones had seemed generally upset much of the time, particularly
with Jokers, and had split off with Stepping Wolf a few times, going ahead
to meet with Blista or to be alone. Wayah had really only hiked for a couple
of weeks with Jokers all told, and he could see the reasons for Jones' frustration.
Wayah didn't let things get to him the way Jones did, but he was ready for
another break from Jokers none the less. The older hiker's small insecurities
about performance and status were out of place 1,200 miles down the trail,
and he was beginning to cling to Wayah since Jones was so obviously upset
with him.
Wayah shook off the discomfort that had settled into a gap in the back of his neck as he was thinking about the tension in camp. He filled his water bottle from the faucet and took a sip, grimacing. The water in towns always tasted like a warm, sour imitation of the mountain spring water he had become accustomed to, but water it was. He sat outside and cooked his supper alone on the concrete walkway in front of the motel as the sun sank deep red into the valley over the town. The soft bed and air conditioning would feel good that night.
In the morning he felt restless. He had woken up later than he wanted
to. The sun hadn't come in past the curtains, and the room was dark as
night but for a few stale streaks of light at the corners of the curtains.
He would reach Delaware Water Gap today, and Squirrel should be aiming
for it about this time also. Could Squirrel have passed this little motel
already this morning without knowing? He should have left Squirrel a note
on the trail by the road. Stupid. Wayah pulled on his pack from where
it had leaned on the wall all night. It was still packed since he hadn't
had to make camp, and Wayah hefted the new food weight from his mail drop.
The full pack was down to just over 50 pounds now that it was summer and
he wasn't carrying his winter gear. When he started it had been over 60.
They say not to carry more than one third of your body weight, but that
allowed 70 pounds for Wayah.
He dropped off his key and walked down the road to the trail and up into
the woods. He stepped solidly from rock to rock, hounded by the feeling
that Squirrel had already passed him. The rocks of Pennsylvania were trying
at times, grueling at others, but now he waded among the endless, fist
sized rocks with little effort. Down the trail about a mile he ran into
a couple of hikers coming the other way. They were clean and smelled like
shampoo. Day hikers for sure. Wayah asked them if they had passed any
other hikers that morning.
"Sure. There was a pair of them we passed
about an hour ago," said the stocky man in front. His dark hair was
neatly combed.
"Did you catch their names?" Wayah
probed, hoping for evidence of his friends passing.
"No, they just humped past us."
"Did one of them have crazy hair like a
mop?" Wayah asked, knowing that everyone Squirrelfight met remembered
his hair if not his name.
"Sure," said the day hiker smiling.
Wayah moved on possessed. He glided over the rocks and along the bumpy trail. Crazy hair could mean almost anyone on the trail, but Wayah could feel his friend nearby, and he strode over the rocks as fast as his body could navigate the rolling, sharp boulders. He had been half walking, half jogging for two hours when he came to the first shelter. If Squirrel had passed him he would surely have signed in at the shelter. Wayah wound his way up the short path from the trail to where the shelter sat above a dry clearing beaten down in most places to bare dirt. In the shelter a gaggle of what could only be college kids sat snickering and playing with a stove, dressed like they were headed to a frat party. From the edge of the woods came a hiker with the swagger of a newly emptied bladder, but more than that, it was a familiar swagger. The hiker wore unfamiliar purple jean cut-offs and a white tank top, browning with layers of sweat, but the heavy boots, dreaded hair, and clear eyes could be none other than the Viking Hero.
"Squirrelfight-snakebite-bobcat-wrestlin'-Viking-Hero!" Wayah
yelled from under his uncontrollable grin, "How you doin'?"
Squirrelfight looked up in shocked recognition. The last thing he had
expected after his weeks of trying to catch up to the Vikings was to have
the Viking Lord come up behind him. Squirrelfight took a second lunch
while Wayah rested and they told each other of their time apart. Wayah
could tell Squirrel had been off the trail for a while. There was something
from off of the trail that lingered around him like a secret. Seeing him
in different clothes continued to be distracting also. They had seen each
other in the same hiking shirt and the same pair of shorts for months.
They hiked and talked that day, only having to go another six miles to
reach the Water Gap, and by the time they reached the summit of the ridge,
looking down where the stone layers of the earth had been shattered making
way for the small town and road, the Viking Hero was back.
They made their way down into town, hoping to catch Jones unawares and
surprise him. They headed first to the hiker hostel, nestled behind the
church, and on the way ran into Leap Frog, waiting on a bench for Squirrel.
Leap Frog was very introverted, but became less so on being introduced
to another thru-hiker. He seemed to have a mild disdain for non-hikers.
He had seen Jones go to the diner down the street with some other hikers
earlier and expected him back any time. Squirrel and Wayah took to the
street to hunt Jones down. Upon reaching the road they immediately saw
a group of hikers coming back up the hill from the direction of the diner.
Jones and Jokers were among them and Wayah and Squirrel quickly ducked
off the street into the cover of trees and houses.
"Did he see us?" Squirrel grinned
at Wayah, excitement playing across his face.
"I don't know. Let's circle around
behind the houses and get behind them," said the Wolf, ready for
a good hunt. They leaped over a low fence and ran behind the house into
the yard. They ran from back yard to back yard leaping over rails and
shrubs until the Wolf stopped at the back corner of an old house, looking
toward the street where the unsuspecting group of hikers limped by, talking
among themselves. The Viking Lord and Hero jogged to the sidewalk after
they passed and then charged up behind them, pouncing on Jones. The Viking
Destroyer twirled around, a bewildered look on his face, and they were
together again.
They stayed the Fourth, eating ice cream and getting a ride into town to see a movie. Jones was eager to get going, but Squirrel and Wayah convinced him to stay even another day waiting for Thursday night when every week the church that maintained the hostel brought dishes for a potluck feast fit for a mob of ravished thru-hikers. Many others had similar plans, and still more hurried in over the two days to reach the Water Gap in time for the feast. By Thursday night the tiny parking lot by the church was covered with a long table surrounded by dozens of hikers. They feasted and laughed and met new faces that had come from behind, but come the rainy morning they were gone. Pennsylvania was behind them, and they were a horde again.